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An all new cap that doesn't require a core. Uses a sealed ball bearing rather than babbitt. No machining required on transmission tail shaft, but you do have to cut 3/8" off of the drive shaft bell.
All the gaskets needed when removing the transmission cover to change the bands. U.S.A.
Wrench & Clamp used when installing the transmission bands. It holds the bands in place while you work and gives you a free hand. U.S.A.
Enough brass split rivets to do a complete job. U.S.A.
This special tool holds band adjusting nut and washer so they don't get dropped in the transmission. U.S.A.
This handy tool rolls the split rivets around and imbeds the rivet into the lining. Can also be used for installing hood lacing split rivets.
One of the slickest tools ever made to change bands on the model T Ford. Wraps around the transmission drums, hooks onto the end of the band, and just pull the band around the drums. U.S.A.
Special washers used to lock the band adjusting nuts in place inside the transmission. U.S.A.
A worn shaft will cause an unsightly oil leak on your transmission! This shaft is used on both the brake and the reverse pedals.
Transmission brake drum lug shoe. 6 required. U.S.A.
This washer acts as a thrust on end of shaft inside the brake drum. Need 3 per car. U.S.A.
Pre 1917 transmissions used this .025 thick washer with 2 of the T-3320-D washers which were .042 thick.
Bolts to the outside of the hogs head. The pedals cam on these parts. U.S.A.
These little plates take a beatin' inside the transmission. If your old ones are warped they should be replaced. U.S.A.
U.S.A.
Small slotted screw that screws into the clutch adjusting finger. U.S.A.
These are what the clutch fingers pivot on. Early style pin is pictured. Correct style pins. USA
